DIY Assistance: 'How do I refinish existing woodwork?'
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By THOM BAUER
HCP Columnist
I received an inquiry from a lady who wants to refinish, rather than replace her existing woodwork.
If you have some very basic tools and you are willing and able to invest a good bit of sweat equity, this is a good way to improve upon the look of your home without spending a fortune to hire an expensive trim carpenter.
The following is a virtual reprint of my response. (The name of the person inquiring is withheld for their privacy.)
There are a couple of fixes for your woodwork, and the fixes vary based upon how much work you wish to endure. If you are willing to make the change to painted woodwork (now somewhat popular) you can mask your woodwork while it is in place, using a good grade of painter's tape. Lightly sand the woodwork with 80 or 100 grit sandpaper or, even better, a flexible sanding sponge.
Clean the sanded surfaces, using a vacuum first, followed by wiping down the woodwork with a solution of Tri Sodium Phosphate (TSP) and water. When the surfaces are verified to be clean, dust-free and absolutely dry, apply a good grade of primer. A paint store (such as Sherwin Williams) can advise you of the appropriate primer to use.
Nicks and dings may be repaired with any good grade of painter's spackling. To finish, top coat with at least two coats of quality paint. High quality acrylics (low odor and water-based) will work well, but you may be partial to oil based, if you can find it. It is important that you ensure your primer is compatible with the topcoat. Don't scrimp on your paint or your primer...Labor is the most expensive part of a painting project, so it doesn't pay to buy an inferior product.
Bear in mind that if you have carpeted floors or floors that were recently refinished, you might not want to attempt to mask and refinish your trim in place. With carpet, it’s unlikely that masking will prevent paint or stain from finding your floors. In this case it is likely best to remove the trim first. I’ll discuss this in a bit.
If you are wanting stained woodwork, it is unlikely that you can refinish the trim in place...I wouldn't recommend it because you will likely stain adjacent surfaces and working on your hands and knees is not conducive to a good finished product.
I would ensure I can locate some extra trim, because despite the best effort you may damage a piece and find it can't be re-used. Don't worry. Most trim is somewhat standard and a full-line lumberyard can provide a good match.
Make sure you have a pry bar specifically made to remove trim (I have an Estwing that works like a charm because it has a very wide and thin end. Use a scrap piece of wood (thin plywood or paneling works well) behind the prybar to avoid damaging the walls. As you remove a piece of trim, number or letter it and place the same number or letter on the wall (where the mark will be hidden by the trim)...trust me.
Use diagonal pliers or side cutting pliers to either pull the nails out from behind, or to cut them flush with the back of the trim. Don't pound them out through the front or you'll destroy the trim. To strip the wood, there are a number of good strippers, but don't use them indoors and wear the appropriate personal protective equipment. They can be nasty but they are effective.
When the wood has been stripped, sand it and repair dings with a filler that matches the wood and is able to accept stain. Stain as you see fit and apply a topcoat. Oil based stains are, in my opinion, more user-friendly.
Water-based topcoats are nearly odorless and dry crystal clear. They can be used over oil based stains as long as you give the stains a few days to dry thoroughly.
Another good topcoat is a "wiping varnish" made of a 50/50 mix of mineral spirits and varnish (not polyurethane). You use a clean lintless towel to apply, wiping it on in a thin coat. Sand between coats with 220 grit paper and apply at least three coats. I have tried this recipe before and it is very user friendly. It also allows for the grain of the finished wood to really stand out.
When all the pieces are refinished and have dried thoroughly, you can replace them. Use an electronic stud finder to locate the studs in the walls. This will ensure your fasteners hold well. Use 8 penny finish nails for the trim boards; use 4 penny nails or brads for small trim. If you are fortunate enough to have a friend that owns a pneumatic finish nailer, you will do a better job and save loads of time. These can be rented, with a compressor, for a nominal fee, from a tool rental center. If you drive the nails by hand, use a nail set to drive them below the wood’s surface. Use color-matched putty to fill these small holes, if you wish.
If you take your time, buy good quality materials and follow the instructions for their use, I’m sure you'll be satisfied with the results.
Remember: I like hearing from you and I look forward to answering your questions. Send them to me at askthomasbauer@gmail.com.
Thom Bauer is a supervisor of construction and maintenance for a national utility company and a resident of Highland County.[[In-content Ad]]
HCP Columnist
I received an inquiry from a lady who wants to refinish, rather than replace her existing woodwork.
If you have some very basic tools and you are willing and able to invest a good bit of sweat equity, this is a good way to improve upon the look of your home without spending a fortune to hire an expensive trim carpenter.
The following is a virtual reprint of my response. (The name of the person inquiring is withheld for their privacy.)
There are a couple of fixes for your woodwork, and the fixes vary based upon how much work you wish to endure. If you are willing to make the change to painted woodwork (now somewhat popular) you can mask your woodwork while it is in place, using a good grade of painter's tape. Lightly sand the woodwork with 80 or 100 grit sandpaper or, even better, a flexible sanding sponge.
Clean the sanded surfaces, using a vacuum first, followed by wiping down the woodwork with a solution of Tri Sodium Phosphate (TSP) and water. When the surfaces are verified to be clean, dust-free and absolutely dry, apply a good grade of primer. A paint store (such as Sherwin Williams) can advise you of the appropriate primer to use.
Nicks and dings may be repaired with any good grade of painter's spackling. To finish, top coat with at least two coats of quality paint. High quality acrylics (low odor and water-based) will work well, but you may be partial to oil based, if you can find it. It is important that you ensure your primer is compatible with the topcoat. Don't scrimp on your paint or your primer...Labor is the most expensive part of a painting project, so it doesn't pay to buy an inferior product.
Bear in mind that if you have carpeted floors or floors that were recently refinished, you might not want to attempt to mask and refinish your trim in place. With carpet, it’s unlikely that masking will prevent paint or stain from finding your floors. In this case it is likely best to remove the trim first. I’ll discuss this in a bit.
If you are wanting stained woodwork, it is unlikely that you can refinish the trim in place...I wouldn't recommend it because you will likely stain adjacent surfaces and working on your hands and knees is not conducive to a good finished product.
I would ensure I can locate some extra trim, because despite the best effort you may damage a piece and find it can't be re-used. Don't worry. Most trim is somewhat standard and a full-line lumberyard can provide a good match.
Make sure you have a pry bar specifically made to remove trim (I have an Estwing that works like a charm because it has a very wide and thin end. Use a scrap piece of wood (thin plywood or paneling works well) behind the prybar to avoid damaging the walls. As you remove a piece of trim, number or letter it and place the same number or letter on the wall (where the mark will be hidden by the trim)...trust me.
Use diagonal pliers or side cutting pliers to either pull the nails out from behind, or to cut them flush with the back of the trim. Don't pound them out through the front or you'll destroy the trim. To strip the wood, there are a number of good strippers, but don't use them indoors and wear the appropriate personal protective equipment. They can be nasty but they are effective.
When the wood has been stripped, sand it and repair dings with a filler that matches the wood and is able to accept stain. Stain as you see fit and apply a topcoat. Oil based stains are, in my opinion, more user-friendly.
Water-based topcoats are nearly odorless and dry crystal clear. They can be used over oil based stains as long as you give the stains a few days to dry thoroughly.
Another good topcoat is a "wiping varnish" made of a 50/50 mix of mineral spirits and varnish (not polyurethane). You use a clean lintless towel to apply, wiping it on in a thin coat. Sand between coats with 220 grit paper and apply at least three coats. I have tried this recipe before and it is very user friendly. It also allows for the grain of the finished wood to really stand out.
When all the pieces are refinished and have dried thoroughly, you can replace them. Use an electronic stud finder to locate the studs in the walls. This will ensure your fasteners hold well. Use 8 penny finish nails for the trim boards; use 4 penny nails or brads for small trim. If you are fortunate enough to have a friend that owns a pneumatic finish nailer, you will do a better job and save loads of time. These can be rented, with a compressor, for a nominal fee, from a tool rental center. If you drive the nails by hand, use a nail set to drive them below the wood’s surface. Use color-matched putty to fill these small holes, if you wish.
If you take your time, buy good quality materials and follow the instructions for their use, I’m sure you'll be satisfied with the results.
Remember: I like hearing from you and I look forward to answering your questions. Send them to me at askthomasbauer@gmail.com.
Thom Bauer is a supervisor of construction and maintenance for a national utility company and a resident of Highland County.[[In-content Ad]]